When it comes to formulating hair dyes, there are some golden rules that must be followed to ensure a successful result and satisfied customers. Whether you’re just starting out or the company you trained with never helped you figure out hair color, mhd’s 7 Golden Rules of Hair Color should help you feel more confident. when it comes to creating a custom hair color to increase your clientele and improve your income.
hair coloring rule 1: be the expert in your color house
Before you walk up to a customer with an inkwell and brush, learn about the color products your color house offers inside and out! make sure you are an expert in:
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- manufacturer’s instructions for each product
- which developers are mixed with which product lines
- their development times
- and most important, what color shades are associated with your numbering system or letters.
You have to be an expert in all aspects of your color products to make sure the color formulation is perfect every time!
Visit our color wheel article for tips on customizing a color wheel with your color house numbering or lettering system to help you visually associate codes with hue.
hair coloring rule 2: know your natural depths
Being able to visually identify natural depth is an invaluable skill when coloring hair. don’t get too caught up in the international color chart’s natural depth naming. Too often, an inexperienced stylist or apprentice has achieved a depth of level 6 (dark blonde) and rushed to the staff room when they realized the result was much darker than expected. train your eye to correctly identify natural depth.
hair dye rule 3: always make a consultation
never ever break this rule! no matter how often you see your client or how often you color their hair, you want to make sure you provide a thorough professional consultation before each service.
your query is the moment to identify your client:
- natural depth
- hair texture and characteristics
- desired depth and tone
- coloring techniques you will use to achieve your new look
While all of these are important, they are not the only factors to consider during your consultation. You should also check if there are any contraindications that may prevent the service from continuing.
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rule 4 for dyeing hair: always test the skin
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Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your color products and test 24 to 48 hours before each color service. Although allergic reactions to hair color are extremely rare, a client can develop a sensitivity at any time in their life. this sensibility could be her next color date with you. some reactions can be very serious and even cause death. you need to protect your customer and your business and make sure you never bypass this rule.
watch tracey sarno’s full lecture on essential skin and hair analysis processes here
hair coloring rule #5: always analyze your client’s hair and scalp
perform a detailed hair and scalp analysis and record the results for future reference.
You need to observe your client’s scalp for any open wounds or changes in texture or color.
You should look for any recent hair loss that may be an indication of contracting for your service, as well as discuss any recent changes in hair porosity or strength.
The results of your analysis will determine if it is safe to continue with the color service, in addition to informing you of any changes in the choice of product formulation.
If you don’t already have a system to record your inquiries for future reference, download our free mhd client registration card.
Remember that you are often the only person regularly looking at your client’s hair and scalp. It’s always welcome to tell them about any changes you’re not aware of that may need medical attention.
Watch our video Considering Hair Characteristics When Coloring for more advice on analysis and consultation for color services.
hair coloring rule 6: choose your developer first, then your product
at mhd we always recommend that the integrity of your client’s hair is the cornerstone of any color service you offer. The strength of your developer has a huge impact on the porosity and elasticity of your client’s hair post service. Choosing a developer that is stronger than required can have a negative impact on your results and the structure of your client’s hair.
here are our recommendations on developer choice:
6 volumes (1.9%): clients who do not require gray hair coverage and wish to maintain the same depth, change tone or darken. volume 6 (1.9%) is usually mixed with demi-permanent, demi-permanent, or demi-permanent colors that are gentler on the hair.
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10 volumes (3%): clients who require 70% coverage of gray hair or wish to maintain the same depth, change tone or darken. 10 volume (3%) can be mixed with semi-permanent colors. Depending on the manufacturer of your product, 10 volume (3%) is often mixed with permanent color when toned as part of a two-step color service.
20 volumes (6%): clients who require 100% gray coverage or 1 to 2 depths of lightening. 20 volumes (6%) are mixed with permanent color or bleach/lightener.
30 volumes (9%): clients who require 2 to 3 depths of lightening. not recommended for coverage of white hair. 30 volume (9%) is mixed with permanent color, highlight dye or bleach/lightener. never use with bleach/lightener on scalp. use only on hair that has good elasticity or porosity when mixed with bleach/lightener to apply to mid-lengths and ends.
40 volumes (12%): clients who require 3 to 4 depths of lightening. 40 volume (12%) is used with permanent coloration or highlighting tint. not suitable for coverage of white hair. never use with bleach/lightener powder on the scalp. use only on mid-lengths or ends when mixed with a product to protect the hair structure.
hair coloring rule 7: always refer to your lightening curve and your color wheel
Once you’ve identified your natural depth, your target depth and shade, your developer, and your product, you now need to correctly formulate the color that will give you the desired result.
If you are going to lighten or darken, you must first consult your lightening curve. if it’s going to darken, you may need to replace the underlying warmth that would exist in the natural hair color to the desired depth.
If you lighten your hair, you may need to neutralize the underlying heat that will be exposed as you lighten your hair. To learn more about considering the light curve when formulating hair color, read our light curve blog here.
Once you have a good understanding of what’s going on with your underlying warmth, it’s time to refer to your color wheel and the principles of color theory. use color theories complements and color harmony to neutralize or enhance the tone. Learn more about formulating with a color wheel here.
Now you’re ready to correctly formulate your client’s targeted depth and tone! following mhd’s 7 golden hair coloring rules will ensure you have
- Become a master of your color house’s color products and shades
- Correctly identified your client’s natural depth using the power of visual observation
- tested your client’s skin for sensitivity prior to their color service
- consult with your client and identify their target depth and tone
- thoroughly analyzed their skin and hair to identify any contraindication
- chose the correct developer for your desired depth to respect the integrity of the hair
- referred to principles of color theory and considered the lightening curve and complementary color theory and color harmony to formulate the correct formula to achieve the desired depth and tone.
see our wide range of coloring techniques for all levels at mhd here.
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