1 the athlete by stephen harris
phaidon, £29.95
authoritative, appetizing, generous, a distillation of time and place. You can almost hear the seagulls and smell the seaweed. elegantly written portraits of the thames estuary and marshes, and the surrounding kent countryside. A word of warning: it may not be one for the novice cook and he may not be overloaded with recipes, but he will probably want to cook them all. an understated win.buy it for: the slip-resistant soles and seaweed butter
You are reading: Best diet books 2017
2 on my table by nigella lawson
chatt & windus, £26the new nigella. what else do you need? there’s a beguiling casualness to this book’s (lack of) structure, apart from an elegant collection of good things to eat. an attractive reminder of how good a recipe writer she is, indeed a writer.
3 letters to a beekeeper by steve benbow and alys fowler
unbound, £20 a love letter to bees and gardening, a lyrical romance on honey, financed by its readers. there are postcards, seed packets, diaries, expert advice on gardens and apiaries. And then there’s Sir Ian McKellen. taste it like heather honey. god save the queens.buy it for: the bees
4 river café 30 by ruth rogers, sian wyn owen, joseph trivelli
ebury, £28 thirty years since the cafe opened, 22 years since the original blue book, seven since the sublime gray rose died, this is a lavish reboot. 90 refined original recipes plus 30 that are brand new, as clean to read as you’d expect.
5 the christmas chronicles of nigel slater
4th estate, £26the perfect christmas present for your foodie friends and family, though save one for your own kitchen. with his reassuring tone in difficult times, he could happily sit by her bedside. almost like holding hands.buy it to: welcome winter days and for Christmas cooking
6 homemade by giorgio lotelli
fourth power, £26locatelli is incapable of making a bad book: each one (this is the third) seems to be lavished with love, like the recipes. maybe a little more utilitarian than the others but at least you won’t feel as guilty when you splatter it with tomato sauce (there are four recipes).buy it for: 4 am spaghetti
7 downtime by nadine levy redzepi
ebury, £27 the chef cook’s cookbook. a debut collection from the wife of a famous chef, free from her long shadow. Informed by an interesting, proudly independent past and present, there’s much to admire here, including the writer’s voice. artfully presented recipes to the competent, less confident cook.buy it for: the surprise tribute to antonio carluccio
8 the folio book of food & drink edited by jojo tulloh
folio, £34.95wisdom from jeeves to james joyce, from olney to orwell, the kind of old-school misc of excellent food and drink writing you’d expect to find in the library of a small seaside hotel. the illustrations are also a delight.buy it to: keep it next to your bed or in the bathroom
9 the plagiarist in the kitchen of jonathan meades
unbound, £20“it’s all steal,” says former food critic meades of the impossibility of writing an original recipe. here, he’s picked 125 of his favorites for an “anti-cookbook,” interwoven with brilliant anecdotes, like his futile search for the ultimate cassoulet, and sharp asides, like his instinctive distaste for borage because it’s in pimm’s and that means ” braying men in straw hats.” all of which builds up into an invigorating polemic over the very idea of eating well.buy it for: the prose. the pike is “rich but delicate and sweet, the only sweet thing about it”
10 anthony warner’s angry chef
one world, £12.99, the angry chef is a development chef turned splendid character of a warner blogger. by writing in his character, he deftly turns his forensic dismantling of the pseudoscience behind recent food fads into something that is both illuminating and fun. And he’s more than just a raging science fanatic, with the chapter on prepared food revealing that Warner is wise about the complex, often emotional, reasons behind our eating habits. your life
11 salt, fat, acid, heat by samin nosrat
canongate, the £30 must-read debut from the most compelling new voice in food writing, a cookbook that teaches the reader that the key to the experience lies in fine-tuning the senses. it’s an instruction manual, complete with beautifully illustrated graphs and charts, yet romantic, the author in love with the act of cooking and eager for the reader to feel so much joy (while gaining new skills along the way).buy it for: the wheel of flavors that helps balance herbs and spices from around the world
12 the year of the modern cook by anna jones
4th estate, £26there’s something from the kitchen diary about jones’s third vegetarian cookbook. even the seasonal arrangement of the dishes conveys a sense of how they might fit into real life rather than idealized, with the end of winter marked by ingredients fitting the “herald of spring” and the “early warm days.” It’s also comprehensive, with tips for making the perfect plant-based soups, salads, and summer barbecues.
13 teal: tim siadatan’s cookbook
square glue, £25 north london teal is the perfect neighborhood italian and its first cookbook, written by chef and co-owner tim siadatan, captures the laid-back spirit of the place. Sure, there may be a recipe for rabbit offal, but that just points to the variety on offer, from simple cannellini beans, cabbage, and pancetta to full-on feasts like rolled pork tenderloin stuffed with nduja and prunes. Not to mention pasta so good they opened another restaurant, the phenomenally successful padella, to sell that alone.buy it for: el pici cacio e pepe
14 flavor of moldy barragan snow
fig tree, the debut £25 cookbook from the all-conquering former head chef of barrafina, who is about to open her own restaurant, aka flavor. the dishes are inspired by the food she grew up with in the basque country and her travels in spain and the uk. that means rich dark stews, her mother’s recipe for braised rabbit in gravy, and her own version of Scotch eggs, made with, of course, Iberian pork.shop it for: perfect omelette with chorizo
15 trendy foods edited by taylor antrim
abrams, £55beautiful images of food from some of the world’s best photographers, culled from the archives of american vogue. That means stunning Irving Penn still lifes and gorgeous portraits, with Annie Leibovitz’s image of Nigella, her son, and a trio of chickens trashing the kitchen as a particular highlight. There’s also plenty to read, including a selection of columns from peerless in-house food critic Jeffrey Steingarten, who writes about the sensory overload of “the last time you had a perfect peach” or “every time you had pizza bianca” as part of “the collective genetic memory of the human race, which transcends national and racial borders, overcoming all questions of taste, culture, habit or custom.”buy it for: adding a touch of glamor to your shelves
16 sweets by yotam ottolenghi, helen goh
ebury, £27before ottolenghi became a household name, was a pastry chef and here he returns to his roots, with the help of australian psychologist turned cake queen helen goh. an instant classic that is the product of a long and fruitful friendship.buy it for: the many sensations, especially the pineapple and star anise chiffon cake
17 Lisbon by Nuno Mendes
bloomsbury, £26mendes is britain’s foremost champion of portuguese food, with this book a love letter to his hometown of lisbon. A few recipes will be familiar to anyone who has eaten at his charming London restaurant Taberna do Mercado: bean fritters with clam broth, the incredibly delicious steak sandwich (marinated in pork fat, basically), and the much-Instagrammed splash of deep red. and brilliant. orange that is baked egg pudding and lard. There’s plenty of cultural history, too, with guides to the city’s neighborhoods and surfing beaches along the coast. >
18 zoe’s ghanaian cuisine by zoe adjonyoh
mitchell beazley, £25 subtitled “traditional ghanaian recipes remixed for modern cuisine”, this is a compelling exploration of adjonyoh’s ghanaian/irish heritage, featuring many dishes from the south london restaurant that gave it a name . buy it for: adjonyoh’s signature jollof fried chicken
19 the palestinian table of reem kassis
phaidon, £24.95 growing up in jerusalem and moving to the usa, here kassis rediscovers her culture and identity through her mother’s za’atar-filled flatbreads and crispy rice-stuffed chicken. a celebration of the flavors of Palestinian food, as well as the inspiring women of the author’s family.buy it for: the knowledge and recipes of a community
20 Fasts and Feasts: The Life of Visionary Food Writer Patience Gray by Adam Federman
chelsea green, £20gray’s autobiographical food writing, especially 1986’s honey from a weed, was ahead of its time and the result of an extraordinary life: wartime single motherhood, becoming the first “female editor “from the beholder, circling the mediterranean with sculptor norman mommens, it’s all here.buy it for: the crazy story behind the honey of an herb
food books of the year: a selection of ofm’s favorite recipes
grilled jerusalem artichokes with traditional carrots by giorgio lotelli
Jerusalem artichokes have an amazingly sweet, nutty flavor and are delicious when grilled until crisp. They were originally introduced to Italy and the rest of Europe from the New World, and one theory is that their name comes not from Jerusalem, the place, but from the Italian word for sunflower, sunflowere, because they are actually a variety of sunflower. however, when early explorers first encountered them, they needed to describe the taste, which they compared to an artichoke.
6 servingsJerusalem artichokes 1kg, largesea salt and freshly ground black pepperextra virgin olive oil 80mlpinot grigio or other subtle white wine vinegar 150mlgold, white and purple heritage carrots200g each pea shoots 300g
Cook artichokes in boiling salted water for about 1 hour (depending on size), until tender but still firm. drain under cold water to prevent further cooking, then peel and cut into 1cm thick slices. drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil, then season and grill on a hot skillet or barbecue until charred.
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Pour the vinegar into a bowl, add the artichokes, cover with cling film and leave to macerate for 2 hours, turning them over from time to time. lift it from the vinegar (but reserve this).
peel the carrots then, still using the peeler, cut them into long strips. put in a bowl of ice water to crisp for about 10 minutes. drain, season and put in a bowl. toss with reserved vinegar and remaining olive oil, then add pea shoots.
Arrange the grilled artichokes on a serving platter with the carrots and pea shoots on top. homebrewed by giorgio lotelli (4th estate)
Athletic cod with chestnuts, parsley and bacon
One year I was looking for a fish dish to include in our Christmas menu. I’ve loved chestnuts ever since I was a little kid, walking past old men selling them from their charcoal braziers, and the smell always puts me in a festive mood. its sweetness meant it needed a savory element, and I never need too big of an excuse to break out my own bacon. when I added the fresh flavor of parsley, it all seemed to come together.
for 4 sea saltcod fillets 4 x 200 g maple-cured bacon 2 thick-cut slices (see below, or use good quality store bought) good quality salted butter 50 g, plus extra for greasing chestnuts 12, chicken stock peeled 100 ml lemon juice a little parsley puree to serve (see below)
for the maple-cured bacon (yields 1.2 kg)boneless pork tenderloin 1 x 1.5 kg maple syrup 500 ml sea salt 600 g (I use sel gris)
for the parsley puree (yields 300 ml)parsley leaves 1 large bunch of sea salt
for the bacon: A large plastic tub or Tupperware is useful for the bacon recipe. you want it to be a little bigger than the pig. once cured, the bacon will keep refrigerated for 2-3 weeks.
Rub pork with maple syrup. put in a plastic tub, cover with a lid or plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 days. rotate several times.
Remove the pork from the plastic tub and clean it (but don’t clean the pork). Return the pork to the vat, skin side down, and cover with half the salt. cover again and refrigerate for 2 days.
Rub the salt off the pig, then return it to the tub, skin side down, and cover with the rest of the salt. return to the refrigerator for another day.
rinse the pork well and pat dry. hang in a cool place for 3 days. the pork is now ready to use, as you would bacon. store in the refrigerator once cut.
for the parsley puree: bring water to a boil in a large saucepan. remove lower stems from parsley bunch and discard. boil the rest of the parsley for 1 minute.
transfer to a blender. blend on low speed, adding the cooking water a tablespoon at a time, until smooth and loose. (don’t add it too quickly as you don’t want the puree to be too runny). pass through a strainer and then season with sea salt to taste. transfer to an airtight container; will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2-3 days. chill very quickly to maintain green color in a container with ice.
for the cod: salt the cod fillets on all sides and leave in a colander in the sink for 20 minutes. rinse and dry.
Meanwhile, fry the bacon until crisp and golden brown, then drain briefly on paper towels, cut into sticks and keep warm.
Add a tablespoon of butter to the same pan and gently sauté the chestnuts for about 10 minutes until tender and evenly browned. add the chicken broth and simmer until the broth has evaporated to create a lovely glaze. remove from heat and keep warm.
Preheat a top rack to high and lightly butter a medium nonstick skillet.
Arrange the fish in the buttered pan and top each with a pat of butter, reserving a tablespoon to make a sauce. Grill fish about 3 minutes, basting often with browning butter. once the fish is almost cooked, remove from the grill and leave in a warm place to finish cooking with residual heat. reserve the juices, adding a splash of lemon juice to create a sauce.
To serve, make an ingenious parsley puree on each plate. dress the fish fillets with the buttery lemon sauce, adding another splash of lemon juice and a little seasoning to each one. place the fish on the parsley puree, then top with the reserved bacon and chestnuts. drizzle with remaining sauce and serve immediately.
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note: To peel the chestnuts, use a sharp knife to make a cross in the skin and fry for 2 minutes. then they should peel easily. alternatively, roast in a medium oven for 15 minutes, or simmer in boiling water for 15 minutes. of the sportsman of stephen harris (phaidon)
reem kassis maftool with nutmeg, chickpea and chicken stew
maftool, precious caviar-sized pearls made from whole wheat, is one of the most distinctive Palestinian dishes you’ll find. The word maftool means “rolled” and refers to the way the flour is rolled around small grains of bulgur to get to these pearls. in galilee, people tend to make them bigger and call them moghrabieh, while in central and southern palestine they make them as small as caviar and call them maftool.
4 servings for the broth chicken roasts 1 kg (about 4 bone-in breasts or 4 legs, or two of each) onion 1 salt whole strong> 1 tablespoon nine-spice blend 2 teaspoons (see below)ground caraway 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons bay leaf strong> 1tomato paste ½ teaspoon (optional, for color only)
for the stewolive oil 2 tablespoons onion 1, cut into half moons pumpkin ½ chickpeas diced strong> 1 can of 400 g, rinsed and drained
for the maftoololive oil 1 tablespoon of butter 1 tablespoon of maftool 500 g (see note below)
for the nine-spice mix (makes about 100 g) allspice berries 6 tablespoons cassia bark or cinnamon stick 6 coriander seeds 3 tablespoons black peppercorns 1 tablespoon of cardamom seeds 1 teaspoon of cumin seeds ½ teaspoon of cloves 10 mace 2 leaves nutmeg ½, crushed
To make the nine spice mix, place all ingredients in a large skillet over medium-low heat. stir with a wooden spoon periodically to make sure the spices don’t burn, until you begin to smell the aroma of the spices, about 10 minutes.
Remove saucepan from heat and let cool completely, about 1 hour. This step is crucial because if the spices are not cooled properly, grinding them will form a paste instead of a powder.
Place all toasted spices in a heavy-duty spice grinder and grind to a fine powder consistency. store spice mix in airtight container. it will keep for several months although the scent will fade over time.
then make the broth. Put the chicken in a large pot and cover with 2 liters of water. bring to a boil over high heat, skimming surface foam, then add onion, salt, spices, bay leaf and tomato paste, if using, and reduce heat to a simmer. cook until chickens are cooked through but not falling apart, about 1 hour. when ready, remove chicken pieces and set aside, cover with foil to keep warm.
To prepare the stew, heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat and add the sliced onions. saute for about 5 minutes until softened and brown around the edges. add the squash, stir to combine and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Using a fine mesh strainer, pour 1 quart of your broth into the pot, then add the chickpeas and let everything simmer until the squash is cooked through and the flavors have blended, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and butter in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat. add the maftool, stirring to coat, and stir to lightly toast, about 5 minutes. Using a fine mesh strainer, pour 500ml of your broth into the pot, cover and bring to a simmer. Once the maftool has absorbed about half of the liquid, turn off the heat and let it sit for 15 minutes. Halfway between the absorption and steaming methods, this method produces the best texture for the maftool: fully cooked but still fluffy.
To assemble, preheat grill. drizzle chicken with olive oil, salt and black pepper and place under grill, skin side up, for 3-5 minutes or until skin is golden brown and crispy. meanwhile, transfer the maftool to a large serving platter and pour some of the stew over it. top with chicken and serve with bowls of stew on the side.
notes: maftool is becoming more widely available in supermarkets and online, but if you can’t find it, use moghrabieh, fregola sarda, or giant couscous.
Mixed spices are featured in many of the dishes in this book, giving them a uniquely Palestinian flavor. it’s my mom’s blend, but feel free to adjust to your liking, or you can substitute store-bought baharat or lebanese seven-spice blend for an equally flavorful, if slightly different, flavor profile. from the palestinian table by reem kassis (phaidon)
nuno mendes egg and olive oil cake
This is one of my favorite Portuguese desserts, made with just egg yolks, sugar, a touch of flour, and rich Portuguese olive oil. the amounts here make a fairly small cake, but can easily be doubled or tripled.
4 servingsicing sugar100g eggs 4 whole, plus 1 yolk olive oil 80ml flour 20g extra virgin olive oil to serve sea salt flakes to serve
Preheat oven to 220c/gas mark 7. Grease and line a 20cm round baking pan with parchment paper. Place the sugar, eggs, and yolk in the bowl of a stand mixer and beat for up to 30 minutes, until very light and fluffy.
Gently add the olive oil and flour and pour the batter into the pan. bake 8 minutes, or until cake is set but still a little sticky in the middle.
Let it sit for 5-6 hours to collapse and set and the top to form a crust. drizzle a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of sea salt on top, then eat at room temperature. from lisboeta: recipes from the city of light in portugal by nuno mendes (bloomsbury)
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